Homeowners: if you have a storage tank water heater (you most likely do), then you need to drain and flush it periodically (every year is the average). Why? Sediment and other crap builds up in the tank over time, causing inefficiency and possibly even damage, if left unchecked.

Here’s a good how-to on flushing it: http://www.wikihow.com/Flush-a-Water-Heater

I flushed mine last night, and learned some lessons the hard way. Here’s what I learned.

If you have an electric water heater, double-check and then check again that you’ve turned off the breaker switch for the water heater, before you start draining it. If the electricity is on, you will burn out one or both heating elements. I managed to turn off my dryer instead of the water heater, and burned out my top heating element. For some reason, the folks who labeled my breaker box didn’t label correctly, according to the numbers; the labels were off by one slot. The breaker box had a blank slot on the top, but the label grid started at the top, and had the blank spot at the bottom. It was easy enough to figure out if I had double-checked.

Heating element replacement

If you do end up burning out a heating element, don’t despair. You don’t need to spend a bunch of money on a professional, and parts are cheap. A new heating element will run you $10 or so, and replacing it is as simple as draining the tank again, opening a panel, and replacing a screw-in part. Instructions should be on the back of the heating element package. There are also some how-to pages and videos on the internet.

Watch out, though: you may have only burned out one heating element (electric heaters have two). To figure out which one, you need a continuity tester or a multimeter. Turn off the electricity again, of course — and verify that you have done so, if you don’t want to die — and then test the heating elements. Disconnect them (leave them screwed in, though), and then test resistance across their leads. If you get something like 10-16 ohms (or a closed circuit, if you’re just using a continuity tester), the heating element is good. A bad heating element will read as a very high resistance (multiple kohms) or an open circuit. Once you’ve tested the heating elements, you’ll know how many you need to buy and which one you need to replace. I burned out the top one.

When you go to get the new heating element(s), make sure you also get the giant socket-like wrench that is needed to remove and replace them; it should cost $6 or $7. The one I got was basically a short pipe, with a hexagonal end. The other end had holes cut through it perpendicular to the “pipe’s” length; I put a long screwdriver through these holes for leverage.

Replacing the heating element only took me about an hour — most of that time was spent waiting for the tank to drain, and waiting for it to fill up before I turned the electricity back on.

 

 

 

 

 

In the process of moving things out of the second bedroom, so I could rent it out, I had to move my pfSense router machine to the living room. It was running on an old desktop computer I had lying around, and was louder than I’d like for the living room; in addition, my Kill-A-Watt measured it as using 50 watts of electricity during typical usage.

I looked at some low-power, passive-cooling solutions like ALIX embedded platforms — which use just 5W maximum — but even the used units I could find were too expensive for my budget.

I had an old laptop from 2001 lying around (Sony Vaio PCG-R505DSK). The specifications said that the laptop used a maximum of 80W. My measurements indicated that it used about 15W at idle, with the battery not charging. That’s a power savings of about 25W. Not huge, but the laptop was also a lot quieter than the old white box PC. I decided to convert it into a router.

The laptop already had a built-in Ethernet port, but it wasn’t gigabit-speed like the rest of my network. That was fine, since the Internet connection wasn’t anywhere near even 100Mbit — I planned to connect this built-in interface to the WAN side. I would need a PCMCIA Ethernet card for the LAN interface.

The Vaio also had a MiniPCI Orinoco wireless card, but I didn’t want to use it for an access point. I already had a slick little La Fonera running OpenWRT in a more central location, anyway. The wifi interface might be useful to run as a Kismet drone (there are binary packages available that work on FreeBSD/pfSense).

One thing that had bugged me for a while about the pfSense box was that its hard drive could fail at any time, forcing me to spend a couple hours getting a new hard drive and reinstalling pfSense. The laptop had an IDE drive that would be prone to the same kind of failure. However, I had a 2GB CompactFlash card lying around that came with my camera (I only use one of the cards at a time), and CF can be adapted to IDE, so I could use that for the storage.

Components I already had on hand:

  • Sony Vaio PCG-R505DSK laptop
  • 2GB CompactFlash card

Components I purchased:

  • TrendNet PCMCIA Cardbus Gigabit Ethernet card — $24 USD at Fry’s
  • Syba SY-IDE2CF-NB25 IDE to CF adapter — $7 ($12 with shipping) on Amazon

Once I got the parts I needed, I set to work installing the CF-IDE adapter. Opening the laptop to get at the hard drive was simple. The bottom has six screws that secure the panel below the keyboard, where the touch pad is.

Once the screws are removed, the panel just pops off (but watch out for the touch pad’s ribbon cable).

Before I pulled the panel off all the way, I just flipped it over and set it down, taking care to not put too much tension on the touch pad’s ribbon cable. I grasped the ribbon cable where it plugged into the motherboard, and pulled it straight out (up). I don’t think there’s a catch for this; it’s just held in by friction.

Next, I disconnected the hard drive connector by popping it out of the board connector with my fingernail.

The hard drive caddy/housing is held in by another screw (or two?) on the side. In addition, the drive is held in the caddy by four screws on its sides.

I removed the drive from the caddy and fitted the CF-IDE adapter. Oops … no side screws on the adapter. Well, time for a hack.

I just looped some twist ties around through the screw holes. Once tight enough, it was a good enough fit for something that was so light, and that wasn’t going to be vibrating or generating much heat. There was plenty of room underneath the adapter for the slack ends to hang out, so I left them, rather than mess with cutting them if I ever want to remove the adapter.

See, the twist ties don’t show up at all in this picture. You’d never know about the terrible hack if you just opened the wrist rest panel!

Anyway, once the CF-IDE adapter was installed, I reversed the steps to close it back up. Then, I installed the PCMCIA Ethernet card (just slide it in the slot), hooked up the external CD drive, and booted up the pfSense live CD to install.

Now, here’s a bit of a tricky part. Since CompactFlash dies after a lot of write cycles, you want to reduce the number of writes that take place. pfSense’s default installation is designed to be installed on hard drives, so it doesn’t have any precautions against lots of writes.However, pfSense has an embedded option, intended for machines with CF storage, that mounts the filesystem read-only for normal operations.

I didn’t want to mess with copying the embedded image to the CF card directly, so I cheated a little and did the live CD installation. Once I had it installed, and the configuration from my existing pfSense machine set up (a simple copy of an XML file), I set the machine to “embedded mode” by running the following commands:

# echo "embedded" > /etc/platform
# /etc/rc.conf_mount_ro

Fair warning: the pfSense dev team do not recommend this. It could cause things to break in weird, unexpected ways. However, it’s currently working fine for me.

© 2011 Chris Daniel Suffusion theme by Sayontan Sinha